Well Pump Not Working? Start Here
On a deep Hill Country well, pulling the pump costs $650 to $1,500 before any parts. It is worth twenty minutes of checking before you authorise that. Work down this list in order — the cheap causes are also the common ones.
1. No water at all
Check the breaker. Well pumps are on a dedicated double-pole breaker. Reset it once. If it trips again immediately, stop — that indicates a short in the wire or motor and needs a professional.
Check the pressure switch. With power off, look at the contacts inside the switch cover. Burned, pitted or black contacts are the single most common cause of total water loss. This is a $150 to $330 fix, not a pump replacement.
2. Pump runs but there is no water
The motor is fine, so the problem is between the pump and your tap. Likely causes are a dropped or leaking drop pipe, a failed check valve, or the water level sitting below the pump intake. That last one matters here — Hill Country static levels fall in dry years, and the fix is lowering the pump rather than buying a new one.
3. Pump cycles on and off rapidly
Almost always a waterlogged pressure tank. Tap the tank: solid all the way up means the bladder has failed. Fix this promptly — rapid cycling is what destroys pumps, and on a deep well the replacement is expensive.
4. Pressure has dropped gradually over months
Gradual decline points to restriction, not failure. North of San Antonio that means calcium scale from hard limestone water building on impellers and inside the drop pipe. South, in the Carrizo-Wilcox sands, it means iron bacteria fouling. Both are treatable and neither necessarily requires a new pump.
5. Water is spitting or surging
Air in the line. The pump is breaking suction periodically, which again suggests the water level is near the intake, or there is a leak in the pipe above the pump.
When to stop and call
- The breaker trips immediately on reset
- You smell burning at the wellhead or control box
- You have ruled out the switch and tank and still have no water
- You do not know your well depth or pump setting
Whoever you call, ask for your static water level and pump setting depth before agreeing to any work. Those two numbers separate a real diagnosis from a guess.
Frequently Asked Questions
My well pump has no water at all. What do I check first?
The breaker, then the pressure switch. A tripped breaker or burned switch contacts are the two most common causes of a total water loss and both are cheap. Do not let anyone quote a pump replacement before those are ruled out.
The pump runs but no water comes out. What does that mean?
Usually a dropped drop pipe, a failed check valve, or the water level having fallen below the pump intake. In a drought year on a Hill Country well, the water level is the first suspect and the fix may be lowering the pump rather than replacing it.
Why is my water spitting air?
Air in the line almost always means the pump is periodically breaking suction because the static water level has dropped near the intake. It can also indicate a leak in the drop pipe above the pump.
My pump will not stop running. Should I turn it off?
Yes. Continuous running overheats the motor and is how pumps die. Switch it off at the breaker and get it looked at. The usual cause is a waterlogged pressure tank or a leak somewhere in the system.
Still stuck? Request a callback
Fastest response is by phone — call 210-485-5491. Or send details below and we'll call you back.